The stars of the CBT Vietnam project

For nearly a decade I have been fortunate to be a part of a community based tourism project through Capilano University. I have worked on this transformational project in Vietnam in varying capacities and have many people to thank.

Sapa's inspiring terraced landscape.

In northern Vietnam there is a (in)famous tourist destination known as Sapa. Inspiring terraced landscape, cool climate and colourful culture is easily accessible via overnight train. For one hundred years visitors have frequented Sapa. Tourism is here to stay.

The ‘CBT Vietnam’ project emerged from a trip to Sapa by a group from Hanoi Open University (Vietnam), Capilano University(Canada) and North Island College (Canada). Dr. Geoffrey Bird led an initial five-year project supported by the Association of Canadian Community Colleges. The project focused on skills-based training in the villages of Tavan and Taphin. Volunteer students and faculty from partner schools developed and delivered training primarily to local women. The goal was to create new opportunities for employment, develop a more sustainable form of tourism, and increase quality of life.

I was a student volunteer on the project who was changed by the experience. In fact, I took a leave from my studies and moved to Vietnam to travel and work in tourism. I was inspired.

Speaking with Khu in Lao Chai.

Two years after the project had completed I visited Taphin village and some of the locals. We discussed the idea of another project. Planning, entrepreneurship, network building, collective marketing and mutually beneficial partnerships were themes that would eventually lead to a series of projects generously supported by the PATA Foundation. The projects continue to bring Vietnamese and Canadian volunteer students together in the delivery of community tourism learning programs.

Some of the stars: Taryn, Stephanie, Jase and Kyle.

My current role as a project lead, and the successes it brings, is the product of the hard work of many. I am thankful for those who have continued to selflessly put forth their time and effort. Instructors and Deans, Stephanie Wells, Jen Reilly, Kim McLeod, Dr. Chris Bottrill, Casey Dorin, Ms. Ngoc Anh and Ms. Que have been instrumental in making these projects happen. The countless students that have been on the CBT Vietnam project are the heroes and heroines. Our stars. In the field they have excelled. They have been the energy and the true grit of the project. 

In a training workshop. Ms. Ly Man May is pictured second from the left. 

But the people that deserve the most appreciation are those from the villages. They have inspired us all. Tearful goodbyes when we depart from a project trip are testament that we are more than partners in the experience. This community development project is not an ‘us’ and ‘them’ case study. People like Ms. Ly Man May in Taphin, Ms. Soi in Tavan and Ms. Mai in Lao Chai are some of the individuals that deserve all the credit. These resilient, thoughtful women have trusted and welcomed us into their homes. 

When you go to Sapa you might have the opportunity to stay with some of these women. Learn from them like we have, and when you leave, be sure to thank them in their language.

One Month Countdown!

One month countdown before the CBT Vietnam Team from Cap U board the plane to Vietnam! 

When the Capilano University team met last week our arms were just recovering from the visit to the travel clinic. Now with the shots out of the way and the rest of the necessary preparations from our checklists nearly completed we went full speed ahead with completing the itinerary.

The itinerary is packed full of things including; gathering supplies in Hanoi with the help from Hanoi Open University student volunteers and funding from PATA, riding a motorcycle to Tavan with a stop in Lao Chai, continuing with the CBT Vietnam project planning and building strong relationships with the Black H'mong communities in Lao Chai, taking the night train to Sapa where we will spend the week before we host the ladies of Ta Phin back on the night train to meet with tour operators in Hanoi. We also have an exciting pottery crafting experience planned in Ba Trang village, for these amazing women, that will ensure they return to their own village inspired with a special self made souvenir in hand.

Let us not forget that we have planned many meetings including community meetings and meetings with the Sapa Government, tour operators, teachers, and follow up meetings with the homestay owners and village CBT Management Board Members.

The Untold Sapa: Why Lao Chai is the Next Frontier for True Cultural Immersion

For decades, international travelers looking for the ultimate trekking experience in Southeast Asia have had one specific route drilled into their minds: the classic three-hour trek descending into the valley of Ta Van.

Let's be completely honest. Because of this, Ta Van has seen incredibly rapid development. It is bustling, it is lively, but for the intrepid traveler—the one who truly wants to be cultured—it can sometimes feel a bit too polished.

But what if I told you that along that very same famous trail lies a hidden gem that most tourists just walk right past?

Welcome to Lao Chai. For many years, this breathtaking area has merely been a pitstop—a place where tour groups pull over to have lunch in Vietnamese-owned restaurants set up along the trail, snap a few quick pictures of the quaint Black Hmong village communes, and leave.

But a quiet cultural revolution is brewing in the highlands. If you are an American or European traveler craving raw authenticity over tourist comfort, here is why Lao Chai needs to be on your radar right now.

The Untamed Soul of Lao Chai: The Blueprint of an Authentic Hmong Experience

While the rest of Sapa charges forward into modernity, Lao Chai is standing on the precipice of a beautifully sustainable cultural awakening. Here is what makes this corner of the valley entirely unique:

1. The Raw, Unfiltered Black Hmong Heritage

Unlike other villages where traditional clothes are only worn for evening performances, the Black Hmong of Lao Chai live their heritage every single second. Their clothing is an exquisite art form—deeply indigo-dyed hemp fabrics detailed with intricate, geometric batik patterns. The people here possess a fiercely proud, independent, yet deeply curious character. They aren't looking to change for tourists; they are inviting you to understand their world.

2. The Birth of True Hmong Homestays

Up until recently, there was yet to be a network of true Hmong homestays in Lao Chai for the bold traveler. But history is changing. Following the enormous success of the community-based tourism project in Ta Phin—where Capilano University and Hanoi Open University built the capacity of Red Dao residents to run highly successful homestays—the expertise is moving to Lao Chai.

Over the next two years, an enthusiastic partnership between the Sapa Authority, international experts, and the local Lao Chai Hmong community is focusing entirely on homestay training and development. This means when you visit now, you aren't staying in a commercialized hotel disguised as a rustic lodge. You are stepping into the birth of genuine, community-owned Hmong homestays designed to preserve the integrity of the village while welcoming you as family.

3. Hearth-Fire Gastronomy

In a true Lao Chai homestay, dinner is an unforgettable ritual. You will sit on low wooden stools around a central, open hearth-fire inside a traditional timber house. The food is delightfully rustic: Men Men (steamed ground corn, the traditional staple of the Hmong), wild mustard greens foraged from the edge of the rice fields, and locally raised pork smoked over the kitchen rafters. It is smoky, earthy, and intensely authentic.

Unmissable Off-the-Beaten-Path Experiences in Lao Chai

Trace the Ancient Stone Paths

Instead of sticking to the main muddy trekking trail where the tour buses drop off crowds, ask a local Hmong guide to take you through the interior maze of the village communes. You will walk past ancient wooden houses, watch elders crushing indigo leaves in stone mortars, and see children playing among the giant water buffaloes against a backdrop of steep, towering green terraces.

Partake in a Traditional Textile Workshop

The Hmong women of Lao Chai are masters of wax-resist batik and indigo dyeing. Sitting down with a local artisan to learn how to draw traditional patterns using hot beeswax and copper pens is a meditative, sensory experience. Your hands will be stained blue by the end of the day, but you’ll take home a piece of fabric that carries a thousand-year-old story.

The Adventurer’s Dossier: Essential FAQs

When is the absolute best time to catch Lao Chai in its glory?

To see the landscape at its most dramatic, visit during September to early October when the rice terraces turn into a blazing amphitheater of gold just before the harvest. If you prefer lush, vibrant green shades and mystical, misty mornings, May to June is an absolute dream for photographers.

How do I get to Lao Chai from Sapa Town?

Lao Chai is located roughly 4 to 5 miles (7 to 8 km) from the center of Sapa town. While many tourists trek down as part of a massive group, the best way for independent travelers is to hire a local Hmong motorbike taxi (xe ôm) or a private car to drop you off directly inside the village, allowing you to bypass the crowded upper trails.

Is staying in Lao Chai expensive?

Not at all. Because this project is deeply rooted in community-based tourism, the pricing is incredibly fair and directly benefits the local families:

• An overnight homestay (including a massive communal dinner and breakfast): $18 to $25 per night.

• A traditional Hmong textile workshop experience: $10 to $15.

• A simple, hearty mountain lunch along the trail: $4 to $6.

How many days should I spend in Lao Chai?

Do not just do a lunch stop! To truly absorb the magic, plan for at least 2 days and 1 night. Arriving in the late afternoon allows you to see the village after the day-trippers have left, when the smoke from cooking fires rises through the thatched roofs and the valley plunges into a profound, peaceful silence.

Is it safe for solo and independent wanderers?

Lao Chai is exceptionally safe. The Hmong community is tightly knit, protective, and incredibly welcoming. Your main safety considerations are practical ones: the mountain paths can be incredibly slippery after a rainfall, so proper hiking boots with excellent grip are a mandatory requirement. Also, always pack a good headlamp, as village paths lack streetlights after dark.

Quick-Reference Local Insights

• Language Nuances: While the local people speak Vietnamese, their primary language is the Hmong dialect. Thanks to the ongoing homestay training programs, the younger generation of hosts speaks an impressive level of enthusiastic, conversational English.

• The Cash Rule: There are no ATMs in the rice fields. While you can pay for your tour or lodging online through certain operators, you will absolutely need physical cash (Vietnamese Dong) for buying handmade crafts, tipping local guides, or purchasing drinks at the village stalls.

• Cultural Etiquette Note: Hmong homes have sacred spaces, particularly the central pillar and the main altar. Always wait for your homestay host to invite you inside and guide you on where to sit. Respecting these boundaries shows the locals that you are there to honor their culture, not just consume it.